29 January 2013

Three B Wine: "Biologico"(Organic), Biodynamic and of the "Buon senso" (common sense)

Probably the word “natural” it’s not the most appropriate for define a wine, also because all the wines, after all, can be defined “natural”. But at the same time no one is really completely natural because the vine is, since always, a human-made plant, consider for example the use of the rootstocks.
The fundamental principle is rather the Naturality, namely what is good and different for nature, with a lower use of any chemical contribution and invasive techniques. Therefore, we have to try to exalt above all the diversity, producing a wine in the most natural terms as possible and more close to the natural cycles. To underline that these practices must be considered as a point of arrival and not as a point of departure.
To produce a good wine, then, first you have to start from the raw material, but with a great ability to control then the entire production process, because of course there is always the risk of incurring into problems also serious. It is essential the contribution of the research, otherwise we fall into the empiricism or we are forced to use the chemistry to avoid to throw away all the harvest. I believe instead that we should always focus on wines so-called of the three B, which means that, in addition to producing according to the dictates of  “Biologico” (Organic) and “Biodynamic”, one must also know use the “Buon senso” (Common sense).
Inside the concept of natural wine, have to be valorized all the aspects of the nature but also the work of the man, thus arriving to a correct approach into the reciprocal relationship between nature and man. It's true that there isn't a real and proper discipline that regards the natural wines and that the certifications tend often to immobilize rather than protect. It is therefore essential, at least, establish the principles of these wines, which guarantee the consumer himself from the dodgers of this sector. The future of the natural wines it is therefore extremly positive, but only if there will be from the side of the producers themselves the courage to want work always at its best and without unnecessary extremism.
Also the tastes changing: today the consumer is more susceptible to reflect on what eats and drinks. Moreover, doing so, does nothing but invest on something that concerns him directly, which becomes part of the person itself, that is the food. For this it would be to call these wines "Organici"(organic), if only it not confused with the English word for “Biologico”. “Organico” in the sense to have more respect for the environment and more respect for the character of the wine. Focusing on the concept of value, rather than on the concept of price. The natural wines then may be related to a sum of ethical values, environmental and of the value of the people who work there. The only problem that remains to be solved are the big differences that still exist between the naturalists for the small things. I am increasingly convinced that the producers of natural and organic wines should seriously consider the real sustainability of their actions in the long run. A good producer or a good oenologist is the one who knows how to valorize what is good and different for nature, without the use of tricks that tend to enclose the wine into established schemes, but rather to express it in its entirety, and this can be only done in a view of total respect: talk about naturality means, first of all, recognize that there is a relationship of balance, made of take and give between man and the surrounding environment, a mutual enrichment, without which will be only demagogic define our wine Bio-something ...

Participation of Federico Giotto in the Article "In search of the Naturalness" published in the magazine "Il Sommelier Veneto" Year 14 - Number 4 - December 2012