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The wine between innovation and tradition 

The modern history of the wine - vineyard and winery - has remained unchanged or almost as stuck on a still image, for many centuries. Few innovations and few discoveries that have come to disrupt the peaceful conduct. Actually, until the wine has been considered a food, there was no reason to waste time on topics considered futile. Hand in hand with the development of the communications and with the growing rapidity of the transport, has grown the trade: the wine has become an important object of exchange. Until weren't born the first wine-growing areas with declared commercial purposes - let's think to the "Aquitaine" with the first specialized vineyards to supply the markets of Northern Europe - produce wine was one of the many jobs which committed the farmer during the year, to feed his family.
In addition to the vine, there was to treat the orchards and the gardens, not to mention the healthy growth of the animals at the farm. These jobs were all, in the same way, at the basis for wealth and for feeding of the family. The needs that moved those who worked the land was to produce, limiting at the maximum the expenses. Are happened so the years - poor vintages or marred by frosts and hailstorms - in which the potatoes, for example, could have replaced the wine as a source of income and livelihood for the farmer. With the advent of specialized viticulture and the trade, the things have changed and the huge economic interests involved in this business have put in motion scientific research which, through the use of chemistry, has led to improvements decisive in the life of the producer.
Today, the obligation to offer the consumer, each year, a generous quantity of quality wine has prompted the growers to exaggerate sometimes with the use of chemistry. Over the past fifty years, it has been abused of fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides and insecticides synthesis, in the name of a productivity to save. Slowly but surely, starting from Northern Europe, it has developed a protest or at least a reaction to this state of affairs. by virtue of elementary rules of health and welfare, the people of drinkers has become aware of the harmfulness, or at least of the gratuitousness of such a large use of chemicals. This diatribe has expanded like wildfire to the rest of the world, and today there is a clear split between those who consider that the sustainability is at the base of every production process and those who think that at the center there is the economy.
On the one hand, the purity of the small vigneron who is willing to lose a share of the harvest so to not poison his own soils; on the other hand,the need for the vignerons, which in the recent decades have become business farmers " at exclusive use wine", to assure during every harvest a good production in quantity and quality. On the relationship "tradition-innovation" in the enology, in the recent years it has opened up a close debate in a logic of contraposition that does not help to understand what a consumer look. Put in opposition autochthonous vines against  international vines, spontaneous yeasts against selected yeasts, barriques against large barrels, biological against conventional, means giving up the past to propose new solutions, whose life expectancy is however like fashion, very short and does not allow to create instead a new style.
Exist an ancient wisdom, the hermeneutics, understood as the art of the interpretation, which could help us to find the way. Let's pretend that there is a figure of an hermeneut oenologist. What is that distinguishes him from the image of oenologist that we have in mind? The second is more like a demiurge: plasmas and modifies; the first must be the daily interpreter of the natural cycles of the vine and of the evolution of the wine in his cellar. It's someone that wait the fulfillment of the biological phenomena, without inflicting the accelerations of the technique. A winemaker who is perfectly at ease with the triad technique/ culture / nature.